Swedes-True Butter Devotees

Photos by Molly Rundberg

butter dish from casafinagifts.com

“A meal should be prepared with butter and love.”  -Swedish proverb-

The butter in Sweden is almost like a family crest, each household is devoted to a different salt intake for their butter and they live for it. While traveling with my dad we stayed and dined in several different households and each household’s butter was different. Salted, unsalted, extra-salt, light salt, and sea salt, I was amazed at the salt varieties of butter and my separate obsession with both butter and salt reached a new height and new level of intensity in Sweden and I have never been the same. Their lovely wooden butter knives and clever butter dishes make butter easy to spread even when cold, it is brilliant. When you scrape butter length wise on a long plane with their butter knives it is easy to spread onto your bread without tearing even when the butter is cold, right out of the refrigerator.

European butter has a higher fat content than American butter about 4-5% more fat and many people think this is why European butter tastes more flavorful.  But really much of that flavor comes from the cultured cream that they use, where most American butters are made from uncultured sweet cream, the cultured cream is what makes European butters taste more “butter-like”. Cultured butter or butter made with cream that has been fermented with bacteria is most common in Europe but there are some American cultured butters. Organic Valley and Vermont Butter and Cheese both carry cultured butters, to name a few.

Swedes’ love of butter cannot be looked into without a mention of their breads and crackers. With all of this bread and butter eating, one would think that Swedish people were not health oriented, but like many of its European neighbors it is quite the contrary. Not only is the “eat what you like, but only in moderation” theory true here but the “eat less move more” theory is also at play, as I noticed that cold weather was only a backdrop to activity not a deterrant.  Their bread usually contains whole grains, as does their crackers, dark rye crackers (knäckebröd) are eaten on a daily basis with butter and cheese.  Butter is a part of the enjoyment of their wonderful artisanal breads and delicious crispy dark rye crackers, they go hand in hand. But to understand the Swedes love of butter one must study the perfection of their butter knives which is really the tool that proves their butter devotion.

Food blogger, Magnus Hultberg encapsulates the Swedish peoples love of butter and devotion to their distinct invention of the wooden butter knife.

“Butter knives must be made out of slightly dark, big grained, flexible wood with a slight scent of fresh spring forest. Thickness is important, so as to get the right flex when scooping up the butter with a precise sweeping motion (just the right amount, wiping excess butter from the knife on to the sides of the box is a capital offense when it comes to proper butter worshiping in Sweden)….” read more.

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Swedish Christmas-cocktail hour

Ode to Sweden, Christmas centerpiece.

All photos by Molly Rundberg

Pepparkakor (Swedish ginger snaps) topped with blue cheese, and glögg are perfect things to serve before dinner but really they are a party on their own, and easy to keep on hand. Swedish ginger snaps are sold most everywhere and have a long shelf life.

Last Christmas my dad took me to Sweden. He was born there and lived in Sweden until he was eight.  Then after high school in northern California he returned to Sweden for college and attended design school in Stockholm. Growing up my family celebrated Christmas with many Swedish customs and foods. I always viewed Christmas as a celebration of candles, warmth and spending time with family. The trip with my father was magical, the time spent with my dad as well as the location itself will not be forgotten.

Because of the short days, roughly 9am-3pm of sunlight, there are candles and wood burning fires outside everywhere you turn. People would spend as much time outside during sunlight even in extremely cold temperatures, at cafes with heatlamps and chairs with blankets of fur to cozy into made it a true winter wonderland. It is not unusual to see people biking and even kayaking (cousin Nils) in very cold weather.  Then after the sun goes down it’s all candles, glögg and gingersnaps.

Swedish hospitality is warm and inviting and the most simple of things become elegant and festive. I loved the gingersnap with blue cheese as an hors d’ oeuvres and I have a simple glögg recipe below.  The cookies in the picture are homemade but are easily found store bought.

Glögg

1 bottle of port
1 bottle of red wine
2 cups of water
1 cup of sugar
5 cardamom pods
10 whole cloves
3 cinnamon sticks
1 inch of ginger sliced thickly
garnish:
slivered almonds
raisins

Pour port, wine, water and sugar into a medium sized pot and turn up heat. Bunch all of your spices into some cheese cloth and tie a pouch together, drop into wine mixture.  Heat glögg just until the liquid starts to steam and is nice and hot, turn off heat and keep covered. Serve in small mugs with a teaspoon of both almonds and raisins.

Note: Glögg keeps well in the refrigerator for up to a week, just store covered in a glass pitcher then heat in a pot on stove whenever anyone comes over. If you would like to make this drink stronger please feel free to add some vodka or brandy, how about a cup?!

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For The Love of Orange Vegetables

Come Fall I crave orange vegetables. I am not sure if it is a vitamin deficiency or just that my body is in touch with the changing seasons but I am at the mercy of butternut squash, acorn squash and pumpkin come the end of September. I believe this elegant dish is in honor of orange vegetables, this time the star is  butternut squash.

I love risotto but I like it with some depth, I like it with some variation, some texture. So I decided to take my favorite hors d’ oeuvre, a butternut squash bite with parsley arugula pesto and turn it into a risotto dish. The roasted butternut squash is sweet, the pesto and sautéed mushrooms are earthy and balance the sweetness, then the pancetta ties everything together with a little salt bite.

Butternut Squash Risotto with Parsley Arugula Pesto

serves 4 as a main dish

1 butternut squash, peeled and chopped
3 tbs. extra virgin olive oil
2 tbs. butter
1 cup shallots, chopped (3-4 shallots)
1/2 cup white wine
1-1/2 cups risotto
4-1/2 cups chicken stock
1 pound crimini mushrooms, thickly sliced
1/4 pound pancetta, roughly chopped

Parsley Arugula Pesto
2 cups arugula
2 cups parsley
1/4 cup parmesan
2 garlic cloves
1/4 cup toasted pine nuts
2/3 cup extra virgin olive oil

Preheat oven 450°F, toss butternut squash with 2 tbs. of olive oil and season with salt and pepper (make sure squash is not crowded on the sheet pan, otherwise it will steam and will not brown properly), turn squash once after 20 minutes, then roast another 10 minutes. Squash is done when it is very soft and golden. Set aside.

Make pesto while the squash is roasting.

Pesto:
In a food processor add all of the pesto ingredients and process, slowly add oil and puree until smooth but still a little texture to it about 30 seconds.

Make risotto:
In a saucepan heat up chicken stock, then let sit on stove on low.
In a large sauté pan or pot, heat 1 tbs. butter and 1 tbs. olive oil add shallots and a pinch of salt and cook on medium low for 10 minutes. Add risotto and toast stirring to coat rice in the oil/butter for 2 minutes. Add wine and bring heat to medium, stir risotto occasionally and cook until the wine evaporates. Add one cup of the hot chicken stock cooking on medium heat stir occasionally and let cook till stock evaporates, continue with stock one cup at a time and after 3 cups add the butternut squash with the last 1-1/2 cup of stock. While stirring mash a few pieces and cover with lid with heat on low, while you cook the mushroom and pancetta about 5 more minutes.

Mushrooms:
Sauté mushrooms in a large sauté pan on medium heat until slightly golden when they are almost finished turn up heat and add the pancetta and cook until crisp about one minute. Fold into finished risotto season with salt and pepper and serve with pesto on top.

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Chocolate Crepes with Hazelnut Goodness

photo by Molly Rundberg

Chocolate crepes? Well why in the world not! I paired this recipe with hazelnut praline spread from Le Pain Quotidien it is called Brunette, how cute! I made some hazelnut brittle then ground it in a food processor and of course topped everything with some unsweetened whipped cream. This is a dessert crepe although I think it could be a wonderful breakfast crepe with a little jam and dusted with powdered sugar.

Chocolate Crepes

makes 18 crepes

2 cups all-purpose flour
3/4 cup unsweetened cocoa powder
1 tbs. espresso powder
1 cup sugar
3 cups milk
3 egg yolks
1 large egg
2 tbs. unsalted butter, melted then cooled (plus butter for pan)
1/2 tsp. salt

Sift flour and cocoa powder into remaining ingredients whisk until smooth.
Pre-heat crepe pan over medium high heat. Smear 1 tbs. of butter into the pan with a paper towel to evenly grease pan.  Measure 1/4 cup of batter, holding pan pour batter as you swirl pan to create a thin pancake. Play around with temperature, it usually takes a few tries to get it right. Your batter should immediately start to bubble around the edges with the bubbles slowly working their way to the middle about one minute total until cooked on first side. Then carefully flip crepe with large wooden or plastic spatula. Cook for another 30-40 seconds. Remove and place on sheet pan. Using your greased paper towel keep your crepe pan moist but not too greasy as you continue to make your crepes. Stack crepes on a sheet pan covered with aluminum foil and in 250 degree oven until ready to serve.

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Mochi is my new popcorn

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My new favorite snack. Mochi! Not the mochi covered ice cream that many of us know and love. It is purely slice and bake pounded sweet rice yumminess. I found it in the case next to the tofu at Whole Foods.  They come out of the oven puffed and crisped on the outside and chewy on the inside, and yes a little funny looking.

My mom is visiting, for a snack we popped some in the oven and afterward I poured a little melted butter on top and as always a little sea salt. I said “it tastes like bread, right?” she looked at me with a very serious face, then said “better”.

I am hooked and so happy. I held back and didn’t buy every flavor in the store. Oh my they have chocolate slice and bake mochi at Fairway Market! I decided I have to finish the cinnamon raisin first before I have the chocolate, so I must to get to work on eating some mochi!

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Cinnamon Hot Chocolate

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We have all had hot chocolate. When it starts to get cold outside it becomes a comforting treat, it may be someone’s morning coffee or evening dessert, regardless it signifies warmth and comfort.

When young, hot chocolate typically was the powdered stuff, growing up it becomes more sophisticated. I remember being in Spain ordering a chocolate ice cream, I apparently ordered wrong but my miscommunication turned into the the best mistake I ever made. Hot chocolate in Spain is very thick and rich, it is meant to eat with a churro, I ate mine with a little spoon and nearly fell off my soda fountain stool while drinking. Here is a  delicious hot chocolate, not too sweet and full of flavor. Something to sit on the couch with a blanket and sip.

Cinnamon Hot Chocolate

One Serving

1 1/2 cup 2% milk
1 tbs. sugar
1/8 tsp. ground cinnamon
1/8 tsp. sea salt
1/4 cup semisweet chocolate, chopped

In a small saucepan heat milk, sugar, cinnamon and sea salt until it gently boils, take off the heat. Add chopped chocolate and let sit for one minute, then briskly whisk until combined. Serve immediately.

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Magical Vanilla Salt

A few months ago I was shopping for a food photo shoot, we needed lots of different types of salt for a picture so I was on the hunt for variety. I walked to Forager’s Market, the lovely DUMBO store that always has just what I need and this time was no different. I found Maldon Salt, my favorite. It’s a British sea salt that is flakey, light and airy, I use it on everything. They also had smoked Maldon, I remembered when I first moved into the neighborhood walking into the store and there it was, such a treat, like someone saying “we will give you this great market and we will put smoked Maldon in it too!” They had many other salts which I had seen before and then I saw the vanilla salt. I realized that the smoked Maldon had just been upstaged. Fleur de Sel, vanilla and kaffir lime zest it was beautiful and it was coming with me.

Now I have heard of vanilla sugar, it is a common ingredient in Swedish cooking, but this was new.  It sat on our shelf for a few weeks, I would look at it when doing the dishes or filling up the water purifier wondering what I would do with it, and then finally one day I thought pork! Thick-cut bacon, two bone-in pork chops and sage cooked in a cast-iron pan….my boyfriend and I were eating looking at one another saying “who do we think we are eating something this good, let’s make it again tomorrow.” I must say bacon wrapped anything is worth the recipe alone but the vanilla salt adds a richness and an earthiness that sends the dish over the moon. Here I have the recipe for the bacon wrapped pork and I have included a homemade version of the vanilla salt I bought.

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Bacon Wrapped Pork Chop with Vanilla Salt
4 pork loin chops bone-in 1 inch thick
4 slices of bacon, preferably nitrate free
8 fresh sage leaves
1 ½ tsp. vanilla salt

Vanilla Salt
1 vanilla bean, seeds scraped
¼ cup of fleur de sel
1 tsp. lime zest, chopped finely

Take out pork chops, rinse and pat dry, set aside. Make your vanilla salt by combining the vanilla bean seeds, fleur de sel and lime zest in a small bowl.

Sprinkle pork with a little more than an 1/8 tsp. of vanilla salt and black pepper to taste. Place a sage leaf on each side of pork and wrap with one slice of bacon.
Heat a skillet over medium high heat. When pan is hot add two of the wrapped pork chops seam side down, cook 5 minutes on each side, when cooked take pork out of the pan and let rest 5 minutes. Cook remaining two chops.

-Molly Rundberg

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Cooking on East 10th Street

Co-op Chef’s cooking class in an East 10th Street apartment September 2nd  was great fun. There were four moms all with kids  14-15 months. These moms originally met one another at the East Village YMCA and have been friends ever since. Throughout the night they spoke about the difficulty of getting dinner on the table as well as what their kids like to eat. One child ate everything except fresh fruit, one could handle a little spice, while others preferred things on the plain side. It seems to me (not a mom but someone who has the great pleasure to cook for kids all around the city and my sweet niece in California) that children’s taste buds are about as different as their personalities. Maybe kids are trying to tell us a little about themselves through what they eat. Adventurous, careful, timid, bold, thoughtful and discerning are all things kids could tell us about themselves when eating.

We made many child friendly items with quinoa and millet (both high protein whole grains) as well as easy vegetable ideas and baked chicken fingers. And what did the host mom’s little girl eat up while the ladies were cooking away in the kitchen? The apricot quinoa. Quite surprising maybe, but quinoa could be child friendly depending on how it is prepared.  I decided to make it for the little girl (again 14 months old) whose family I cook for in Southampton in the summer and she ate it up as well.

DSCN0642Quinoa with Apricots

1 cup quinoa
2 tbs. olive oil
2 tsp. finely chopped ginger
2 tsp. finely chopped garlic
½ cup dried apricots, chopped
2 tbs. cilantro, chopped
1 tbs. scallions, thinly sliced
2 tbs. finely chopped red onion (optional)

Dressing
1 tbs. lemon
2 tbs. extra virgin olive oil
1 tsp. honey
1/8 tsp. cinnamon
salt and pepper

Thoroughly rinse quinoa, in fine mesh strainer, until water runs clear.
Heat a medium sized sauce pan with 1 tbs. of  olive oil over medium heat, add ginger and garlic, sauté for 1 minute or until fragrant, add apricots and sauté another minute. Add quinoa and the remaining tbs. of olive oil.  Toast quinoa until it starts to turn golden, about 3-4 minutes. Slowly add 2 cups of water, salt and pepper, bring to a boil then quickly down to a simmer, cover for 10-15 minutes or until grain is soft and translucent. It is important not to stir. If there is a little water left in pot and quinoa is tender uncover and turn heat up just a tiny bit, cook until the liquid evaporates about 2 more minutes.  Place quinoa in a bowl and toss with dressing and the herbs. Serve right away or serve cold and add chopped red onions.

-Molly Rundberg

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Welcome to CO-OP CHEF

tomatoes

As private chef and freelancer in New York City, I cook pretty much everyday either for a job or for my boyfriend, myself and friends. Sometimes my longest days at work roll into an evening of cooking something that has captured my attention all day.

This blog will be filled with those food day dreams, the things that I think about while I am cooking other things, those luscious ingredients that I get to play with at photo shoots or that I find while traveling. Really, my food inspirations come to life.

-Molly Rundberg

info@coopchef.com

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